Berlin: a city guide
I first visited the German capital in the height of winter on a school trip when I was 16 and studying WW2. Other than feeling like I was going to pass out from the cold, I remember thinking that the city felt hard and unloving: the impacts of history on this unique location are deeply obvious throughout, with real-time memorials such as the Berlin Wall providing a constant reminder of times past. I've since re-visited several times (always in the spring and summer, when Berlin really comes alive), and have found myself falling in love with the ugliness of the city: the grungey, industrial aesthetic of Berlin, and the diversity and individuality that is celebrated among its locals is what really makes it special.
To stay:
This boutique hotel located in Friedrichshain sits within easy walking distance to some of the neighbourhood’s best clubs and bars, and is a great option if you’re looking for somewhere cool to stay and very ‘Berlin’ but without splashing out too much. Interiors are minimal and industrial, with a large open lobby on the ground floor with sofas to lounge on, a coffee shop full of freelancers working on laptops, and large outdoor courtyard restaurant. I stayed in one of their Cosy rooms (the smallest option) which was definitely a bit of a squeeze, but given that we were out exploring every day, we simply needed somewhere to crash each evening. The bathroom walls are made entirely of glass (in case you’re sharing with a friend) and the shampoo is not good at all for people with thick or curly hair (bring your own!) but I’d definitely stay here again on my next visit to Berlin.
This slick Hoxton property located on the west side of Berlin is home to over 200 bedrooms, along with a laidback North Indian restaurant and ‘open house’ lobby where freelancers are encouraged to kick back. While the location might be a bit out of the way for those that prefer spending their time in east Berlin (such as myself), you can expect a comfortable, clean, and design-led stay here.
Soho House’s longest standing property in Europe, Soho House Berlin occupies a gargantuan building on the borderline of Mitte and Prenzlauerberg. Rooms here are industrial and moody, but still feature Soho House’s signature luxury touches: homemade cookies and fluffy bathrobes can be found in each bedroom. The building also boasts a rooftop pool, cinema, and impressive gym - on the ground floor, you’ll find The Store, a concept store and cafe that’s open to the public, with a generous selection of designer brands to browse through.
To eat:
One of my favourite brunch spots in Berlin, Annelies is a neighbourhood cafe in Kreuzberg that serves a small but delicious all-day brunch menu. Dishes include scrambled eggs with kimchi on toast, and an indulgent twist on the McMuffin - and don’t miss the delicious pancakes, which are perfectly fluffy and loaded with cream and berries. There are no reservations, so get here early on weekends to avoid the queue.
A reliable spot for a relaxed and affordable lunch or dinner, Wen Cheng’s serves delicious biang biang noodles across its three locations in Berlin. Hand pulled every day, expect slippery, flat noodles served in garlicky chilli oil with your choice of toppings: lamb, beef, or sticky aubergine.
Serving up speciality coffee and Australian-inspired brunch dishes, Silo is another popular spot on weekends (you can book tables here!). Expect hungry diners queuing up for their smashed avocado on toast with bean sprouts and pomegranate, or cold soba noodles with veggies, ginger miso dressing and chilli flakes.
Located a stone’s throw from Silo, you’ll find 44 Brekkie, which is a great breakfast option if you can’t hack the queue at Silo. The menu here is a small one: good coffee and their famous pillowy-soft scrambled egg brioche sandwiches are the order of the day, which can be elevated with smoked salmon and capers or bacon and avocado (all served with their signature ‘secret sauce’)…this is just the place for a hangover cure.
A modern sourdough bakery located in a quiet courtyard in Mitte, expect a long queue of trendy locals here on weekends. Choose from a spread of pastries, cookies, and cakes, along with a simple breakfast menu, before nibbling your bounty on one of the al fresco tables. I highly recommend the simple cheese and whipped butter sandwich, along with the sticky morning bun.
Sister restaurant to Annelies, Distrikt is one of Mitte’s most-loved brunch spots: alongside speciality coffee, expect tasty dishes such as French toast with caramelised walnuts and berry compote, and spicy ragu on sourdough with chickpeas.
Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers
Also located in Mitte, along one of the best shopping streets in the city, Father Carpenter is set back inside a relaxed courtyard, offering guests great coffee, sandwiches, brunch dishes, and epic banana bread (served with peanut butter and jam) - a good spot to rest your feet and catch a break from ‘touristing’.
Umami is a casual Vietnamese restaurant, which has several spots across the city, serving delicious pho, springs rolls, and rice bowls for reasonable prices. One of the things I love most about Berlin is how late restaurants and bars stay open, as opposed to say, London - we visited their Friedrichshain branch for a midnight meal on our first night in Berlin, and it was still buzzing.
One of my favourite restaurants in the city, Osman’s Tochter was set up by two daughters (Osman’s, to be precise!), and serves modern Turkish cuisine in a chic and contemporary space. Expect lots of small sharing plates: falafel, hummus, and all of the freshly baked pitta you could desire.
A charming Vietnamese restaurant in Mitte with a lovely outdoor courtyard for dining in, Chen Che serves up Vietnamese classics such as spring rolls and rice bowls, all washed down with proper Vietnamese coffee.
A modern European restaurant in Mitte serving seasonal dishes in a minimal space, Lokal is a great spot for date night or a more elevated meal.
One of my favourite coffee shops in Kreuzberg, The Visit is a bright and airy space with lots of seating (you’ll find freelancers sprawled across the space during the day) and great speciality coffee on offer.
A slick daytime eatery, Chipperfield Kantine is located in Mitte and primarily acts as the studio canteen for David Chipperfield Architects; however, the minimal design cafe is also open to the public, and serves simple, seasonal dishes everyday.
And also: Bonanza Coffee, The Barn, and Camon for speciality coffee (Berliners take their coffee very seriously!), Katie’s Blue Cat for a range of delicious home baked goods (cookies, cakes, and pies are all on offer here), Brammibal’s Donuts for tasty vegan doughtnuts (they have several spots across the city), and Buck & Breck for special cocktails in an incredibly slick, sexy space hidden behind a secret door (one of the world’s best bars!).
To visit:
In a city teeming with history, there are multiple historical sites that you should see if it’s your first time visiting: the Berlin Wall, Pergamon Museum, Brandenberg Gate, and Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe should be first on your list. Below are a few of my favourite shops and places to visit if you have some extra time on your hands:
Voo Store
One of my favourite concept stores in the city, Voo Store is located in Kreuzberg and offers a curated selection of designer homewares and clothing in a slick space - alongside a small cafe and deli.
Hallesches Haus
A chic homewares shop, cafe, and events space, Hallesches Haus is a great spot to grab a coffee and browse their homewares selection.
Do you Read Me?!
Offering an impressive and inspiring selection of international magazines and books, Do You Read Me?! is a must-visit bookshop in Mitte.
Go for a night out
It’s not really a visit to Berlin without a night out: Berliners take their nightlife very seriously, and it’s not uncommon to see people dressed up in outlandish outfits and queueing for several hours at some of the city’s most exclusive nightclubs (only to be turned away at the door). Many locals gather for pre-drinks at their nearest off-licence, most of which have outdoor seating, so you can grab a casual drink before heading to the club.
