Edinburgh: a city guide
Edinburgh is somewhere that I'd been wanting to visit for what seemed like a lifetime, and one that I'm surprised I'd never passed through before, given that it is my father's birthplace and also where he spent a lot of his childhood. As my best friend Alex has recently relocated to the Scottish capital, it seemed the opportune time for me to finally visit the city a couple of weekends ago - read on for my favourite places to eat, sleep, and visit.
To stay:
The younger sister of Scotland’s famed Gleneagles, this townhouse hotel overlooking St Andrew Square provides a glamorous hideaway in the heart of the city. Occupying a historic building that was once the Bank of Scotland, the property has been restored into the most immaculate luxury retreat, housing 33 elegant bedrooms, a private members’ club and spa, and an all-day restaurant open to the public called The Spence. Expect feminine colour palettes, quirky artworks, and plush furnishings throughout the property - along with attentive service from all of the staff, and a delicious menu at The Spence, whatever time of day you’re visiting (don’t miss the dessert trolley!). Hotel guests get access to the members’ rooftop bar and spa during their stay, and are treated to a hearty breakfast the next morning.
This beautiful converted townhouse is located in the quieter neighbourhood of Coates, a short walk from Dean Village. I stayed in the Donaldsay Suite, which is one of the hotel’s four stunning suites, each of which feature high ceilings, king-sized beds facing huge flat-screen TVs, and plush fabrics in striking colour schemes (think velvet sofas and tartan cushions galore). You’ll also find deep freestanding bathtubs and homemade shortbread in each of these bedrooms, making for a truly luxurious experience. For more contemporary and slightly more affordable accommodation, opt for bedrooms in the Hampton House, which is a separate building across the road from the main hotel. (While the rooms are beautiful, I would skip mealtimes here, as there are far better places to eat across the city).
To eat:
My favourite brunch discovery in Edinburgh, this neighbourhood spot in Stockbridge is a casual, inviting space with quirky, up-cycled interiors and cosy booths. The brunch menu here is limited but tasty: you’ll find avocado on toast with poached eggs, and bacon baps, as well as speciality coffee. Homemade sausage rolls and delicious melt-in-the-mouth cakes (raspberry and white chocolate, or vanilla and bramble, anyone?) along with other baked goods are also on offer.
A speciality coffee roasters with a modern and minimal space on Melville Place, Caingorm Coffee also offers delicious grilled cheese sandwiches and home baked goods every day (including a very tasty hazelnut and white chocolate blondie!). This is a great place to stop for a quick lunch or afternoon coffee.
Famous for their Swedish-style baked goods (including their addictive cinnamon buns), Soderberg have multiple branches across Edinburgh and have recently expanded as far as London. This was, however, my first time visiting the bakery - we stopped at their Stockbridge branch for coffee and cinnamon buns, and also sampled their delicious pistachio almond cakes. You’ll find Edinburgh locals constantly popping in here for fresh loaves of bread and takeaway pizza as well.
Hands down my favourite meal consumed in the Scottish capital, our dinner at Noto surpassed all the expectations I had of this unassuming restaurant tucked away on a side street in Edinburgh’s New Town. Self-described as ‘New York inspired with a love for Asian cuisine’, you’ll find inventive and mouthwateringly-tasty sharing dishes on the menu here. Highlights of our meal included the Korean-style fried chicken served with kimchi and Sriracha mayo, the crispy polenta fries drowning in Parmesan shavings, and the burrata whipped with peas and mint. Every plate was utterly delicious, and also reasonably priced.
Wellington Coffee is a tiny coffee shop located on George Street in the heart of the city. Its outdoor terrace is a great place to hide away with a flat white - alternatively, grab yourself a takeaway, and take a stroll around the New Town.
And also: Baba for Middle-Eastern sharing plates, The Pantry for brunch, Lovecrumbs for homemade cakes and coffee, Mary’s Milk Bar for homemade gelato, Timberyard for modern, produce-led cooking, and Eden Locke for coffee and pastries.
To visit:
Calton Hill
Calton Hill, otherwise known as Edinburgh’s Acropolis, is located in the centre of the city, and is a great viewpoint for far-reaching views. Definitely head up here to get some great Instagram shots - you’ll find various monuments located on the hill, including a Greek-style temple modelled on the Parthenon.
Arthur’s Seat
It’s not a visit to Edinburgh without a hike up Arthur’s Seat. This extinct volcano is the highest peak in a group of hills offering panoramic views over the capital, and with its starting point located in the centre of town, it provides an enjoyable and easily accessible climb. It will take you around an hour to get to the summit, which offers incredible views of the city and beyond.
Explore the city by foot
My favourite thing to do when visiting most cities for the first time is to explore on foot, and walk around the different neighbourhoods. In Edinburgh, each area is quite distinct in architecture and atmosphere, so this provides an interesting mix. Start off in the Old Town, where you’ll find souvenir shops all along the Royal Mile leading to Edinburgh Castle. Meanwhile, New Town is full of shops and cafes - walk through the peaceful Princes Street Gardens to pass through Dean Village, eventually reaching more residential Stockbridge (also resident to many boutiques and coffee shops), where you can end your tour on picturesque Circus Lane.
Have you ever been to Edinburgh? I’d love to know what your favourite places are in the city!
