Amsterdam: a city guide
Oh Amsterdam…a city of winding canals, historical architecture, and bicycles. Many, many bicycles. Amsterdam is easily one of my favourite European cities, and I’ve always maintained that I would happily move here. While the city may have earned itself a trashy reputation among British tourists, do yourself a favour and make sure to avoid the sex shops, Chinese restaurants and ‘coffee shops’ of the Red Light District. Read on below for my favourites places to eat and sleep across the city, which I’ve compiled across several trips over the last few years.
To stay:
Arguably the most luxurious hotel in the city, Pulitzer Amsterdam is somewhat of an icon. Straddling two of the main streets between the neighbourhoods of Centrum and Jordaan, you’ll find yourself just steps away from all of the action when staying here. 25 canal houses dating back to the Dutch Golden Age have been intertwined to reveal a warren of beautifully designed spaces that are equal parts slick and sumptuous: expect moody tones and plush furnishings contrasted with light-filled spaces, while soaring ceilings and views onto the canal are a given in most of the bedrooms. 5-star luxury and attentive service are all part and parcel of the experience here, so even if you’re not staying over, make sure to visit the Pulitzer Bar or in-house restaurant Jansz to taste a slice of Pulitzer glam.
A stylish townhouse hotel located just a few minutes’ walk from Rijksmuseum, Jan Luyken is a bit of a hidden gem, located on a leafy residential street within easy walking distance to Museumplein and Vondelpark. Guests lounge across a variety of cosy, shared living spaces, and are encouraged to help themselves to snacks and drinks from the kitchen at all times of day before bedding down in the chic rooms upstairs.
Soho House Amsterdam is one of my favourite Soho House city properties across the globe. Housed in a converted, industrial-style 1930s building right in the centre of town and within easy walking distance to the cute streets of Jordaan, the hotel spans several floors and features a members’ lounge, gym, Cowshed spa, and Cecconi’s restaurant. Bedrooms have soaring ceilings, plush furnishings in Art Deco style and moody blue tones, and some even feature deep copper bathtubs. Don’t miss the rooftop pool, with incredible views over the rest of the city - the perfect spot for a sundowner.
Once the Mayor’s home, The Hoxton’s Amsterdam outpost spans several historic townhouses, and is located slap bang in the heart of the city. Bedrooms have a contemporary feel, and feature brass chandeliers and herringbone flooring; the lobby is a cosy and welcoming space to gather for drinks or coffee, and the in-house restaurant Lotti’s is where you can eat breakfast, lunch and dinner.
To eat:
Breakfast, Brunch, and Bakeries:
A relaxed bakery by day, which transforms into a vibey restaurant by night, this is a great spot for pastry lovers. During the day, expect an impressive spread of flakey, freshly baked viennoiserie, alongside focaccia sandwiches and great coffee.
An industrial-style bakery located on the east side of town, Bakhuys serves up an impressive array of homemade sandwiches, cakes, and pastries in a laidback and spacious setting. On weekends, you’ll find locals queueing for coffee and pastries round the block. There’s lots of room to stay a while: grab a seat and order as many tasty treats that you can stomach.
Make sure to get to either of Little Collins’ De Pijp or Oud-West locations early on a weekend, as the queue often goes out of the door - and for good reason too. You’ll find specialty coffee and interesting flavour combinations on the menu here, such as kimchi and gruyere egg scramble, poached eggs and hollandaise on waffles, or roasted peach brioche French toast. Everything is usually excellent, and much more interesting than your regular brunch menu.
American-style sourdough bagels served up with tasty fillings is the daily offering at Breadwinner. Bagels are dense, chewy, and seriously flavourful: choose between your classic smoked salmon with cream cheese, capers, and red onion or pastrami and cheese.
A calming, design-led space in west Amsterdam, Uncommon serves stellar coffee alongside fresh pastries and a brunch menu full of interesting flavour combinations: some of the brunch dishes can be a little on the avant-garde side, but this is a great place to grab coffee before a visit to the Rijkmuseum.
An Italian bakehouse serving an impressive array of desserts and pastries: expect fresh maritozzi, pistachio-filled croissants, and buttery biscuits among a range of other treats.
An industrial-style sourdough bakery in Noord serving cookies, foccacia, and fresh pastries to hungry locals. Order at the counter and grab a seat at one of the tables: the bakery is spacious and airy, and has a lovely laidback feel.
This chic minimalist bakery and coffee shop in Jordaan has become somewhat of an Amsterdam namesake; make sure to get here early to sample their delicious, freshly baked cinnamon buns, croissants, and flakey cruffins filled with unusual flavour combinations (pistachio cream and miso caramel). Best things about this place? Their pastries are 100% plant-based, and taste as good (if not better) than the real deal.
It’s not a visit to Amsterdam without a slice of classic Dutch apple pie, and locals will argue over where to find the best one. Winkel 43 and Cafe Papeneiland are often touted as local favourites: the two locations are round the corner from each other in case you’re planning to compare them. Both might appear to be greasy pubs for old men to hang out, but order a slice of the pie to eat outside - ask for it to be warmed up. Featuring a thick, crumbly crust and delicious cinnamon-apple filling (and then loaded high with cream), it’s the ultimate comfort food any season of the year.
This self-described design studio and ‘canteen’ on the west side of town serves a weekly changing breakfast and lunch menu depending on what’s in season within an architecturally stunning space. Expect interesting dishes full of flavour such as homemade pasta with pumpkin seed pesto, scrambled eggs on brioche with miso and radicchio, or roasted aubergine with tomato and garlic on sourdough.
Lunch and Dinner:
A vibey bar and restaurant, Bambino serves up delicious small plates that are ideal for sharing. Dishes change seasonally and have a mix of European and Asian flavours: favourites of mine included the aubergine parm, braised hispi cabbage, and fresh sourdough bread served with sunflower seed butter.
This fine dining restaurant serves a delicious tasting menu in a slick, elegant space. The seasonally-changing menu is kept secret: diners can choose from a small, medium, or large tasting menu (which dictates the number of courses you’ll be served) and will be wowed by the excellent flavours. I’d definitely recommend this for a special occasion or smart dinner experience.
A generous, industrious space in Noord, this cafe come restaurant features a coffee counter, wine bar, and plenty of seating for diners to spread out. Take a perch on the chic, mint-green seats, and order from the all-day menu, which segways from breakfast into lunch and dinner. Dishes are cooked at the open-plan kitchen, and utilise the freshest of ingredients. This is one of my absolute favourites in Amsterdam - for any time of day!
Not to be mistaken for Cafe-Restaurant Metro (above), Cafe-Restaurant Amsterdam is a large industrial restaurant housed in a former engine room serving an expansive pan-European menu for lunch through to dinner; expect lots of seafood dishes, and an impressive range of desserts from freshly baked madeleines to apple pie.
A relaxed bakery by day (Bakkerij Loof) and vibey restaurant by night (Cafe Binnenvisser) this is a great spot for gourmands. In the evenings, the restaurant’s 5-course set menu is a reasonable 40 euros per head, and you’ll taste some of the best modern European cooking in Amsterdam: our favourite dishes included the roasted brussel sprouts and radicchio, and olive oil and blood orange cake. Everything tastes delicious, and the candlelit space is packed to the rafters with trendy locals. Get here early as they don’t take reservations!
Located in Noord, Amsterdam’s industrial, coming-of-age neighbourhood, Euro Pizza serves up more than just delicious, wood fired pizzas. On the menu, expect flavourful dishes such as chickpea tofu in tingly chilli oil, brassicas with whipped fig leaf curd, and sesame cod toast to name a few - all served within a cool, laidback environment.
Sister restaurant to Cafe Binnenvisser, Calisto serves small plates and natural wines to trendy locals. Sit outside and nibble on focaccia slices topped with romanesco and anchovies, before moving inside and digging into hearty bowls of homemade pasta.
Coffee Shops:
One of my favourite coffee shops in the city, and right in the centre of town, Bocca is an industrial, sleek space serving up specialty coffee and a tasty range of nibbles. Spread yourself across the sofas, or a grab a chair at the sharing table, and stay here a while.
Coffee District has two sleek locations in town: both minimalist, airy, and offering specialty coffee, matcha, and a range of pastries. Their Willemsparkweg location is takeaway only, but is a great spot to grab coffee before heading to Museumplein.
A chic coffee shop on the east side of town, Yusu is a bright, plant-filled full of trendy freelancers; you’ll find speciality coffee and matcha drinks on the menu here, alongside homemade cakes on the counter. Don’t miss out on their delicious matcha cookies or cheesecake.
A large and relaxed coffee shop, Monks Coffee Roasters offers specialty coffee and a simple, tasty breakfast menu. The atmosphere here is relaxed and laidback, and it’s the perfect place to kick back with a book if you have a couple of spare hours.
Often packed on the weekends with stylish locals, Toki is a cosy and chic neighbourhood spot with excellent baked goods on offer: don’t miss the banana bread (loaded high with buttercream frosting), or one of their chunky chocolate chip cookies.
And also Scandinavian Embassy for coffee and cinnamon buns, Selma’s for Nordic-style brunch dishes and baked goods, Oslo for coffee and delicious cardamom buns, and Het Koekemannetje for epic, American-style freshly baked cookies.
