York: a city guide
Happy New Year! I hope you've all had a restful break over the Christmas season (however you've spent it this year), and celebrated the arrival of 2022 in style, whether that was out with friends or in your PJs at home - I was of the latter camp. In keeping with one of my New Year's resolutions, which is to give the blog a revival of sorts and post on here consistently every week, I'm sharing my city guide to York with you below. Let's rewind to the start of December, when I packed a bag, grabbed my best friend, and hurtled up to the historic city for a festive weekend away (did you know the train journey is only 2 hours from London King's Cross? I didn't, either). We were visiting York to preview a brand new hotel opening in the centre of town, which also provided the perfect reason for us to explore the city - a first for me! It's safe to say that I fell in love with York. Not only is it incredibly pretty and easily walkable, the city is also a hub of activity and you'll find a whole host of independent boutiques and restaurants to discover. Read on for my favourite places to stay, eat, and visit.
To stay:
No. 1 by Guest House Hotels, York
The second opening from the brothers behind Guest House Hotels, No. 1 is a beautiful Regency townhouse only a stone’s throw from York’s walled old town. Rooms range from snug to large, and are accessible to a variety of budgets, with colour schemes allowing for soft pops of pink and red among mainly neutral furnishings. I had the pleasure of sleeping over in one of the stunning Bootham Suites, which features soaring high ceilings, beautiful panelled walls, and sash windows, complete with a bespoke four-poster bed and freestanding tub - a record player and tea and coffee dolls house added a playful touch to the room.
You’ll find that this perfect marriage between eclectic and tasteful interiors has been mirrored throughout all of the hotel’s spaces: from the sitting room with mustard coloured walls, to the painted violins and cellos adorning the winding staircase that leads to the 24/7 pantry (stocked with sweets, ice cream, and other treats for guests to raid, whenever they fancy!). Downstairs, you’ll also find a cosy bar and restaurant, and in the basement, bespoke therapies are offered in the spa’s rather chic treatment rooms. .
This was a gifted stay, but all opinions are my own. I do not accept and write about gifted stays unless I truly enjoy them.
To eat:
This spot serves the best brunch in York, and yes, that is a hill I am willing to die on - it might even serve the best brunch I’ve eaten in many, many months! We came here two days in a row, because it was that good. You’ll find an extensive menu offering generous portions of tasty brunch classics (and more inventive options), all served inside a cosy space - and followed up by an impressive array of homemade cakes, brownies, and more. Our favourites on the menu were the warming, spicy shakshuka served in a skillet big enough for two, and the smashed avocado on toast topped with hefty slices of melted goat’s cheese and dukkah. The restaurant is far enough from the centre of town to avoid tourists - but you’ll still find a queue of hungry locals here most days. Avoid the wait by booking a table in advance.
It’s not really a trip to York without a pit stop at Betty’s Tea Rooms. With six tearooms spread across Yorkshire, Betty’s really is a much-loved institution, and has been peddling homemade cakes and chocolates since opening in 1919. Stop here for a full-on Yorkshire afternoon tea (you’ll likely need to queue, as it’s naturally a popular destination), but don’t leave without sampling one of their delicious Fat Rascals - essentially a huge scone, but slightly crumblier, and absolutely moreish when toasted and buttered.
A tiny little coffee shop located on Fossgate (a street full of independent shops and cafes in the centre of town), you’ll find the baristas here slinging expert flat whites to keen coffee drinkers - as well as a range of homemade pastries and cakes each day. If you don’t mind sitting al fresco, you’ll also find a tasty-looking brunch menu on offer. We shared a melt-in-the-mouth ginger and white chocolate blondie here, and I’m convinced that it was the best I’ve ever eaten.
Located just outside the walls of the old town, Brew & Brownie attracts a hoard of locals and tourists alike. Although there’s always a very long queue for their brunch restaurant, you’ll find their takeaway and coffee-and-cakes-only cafe just next door. Serving a decadent range of homemade cakes, cookies, and yes, you guessed it, brownies, settle in here for a cup of tea and something to nibble on. You could easily share one of their brownies between two!
A neighbourhood bakery serving freshly made croissants and pastries, Flori has garnered somewhat of a cult following among York locals. Alongside fresh bacon swirls and pain au chocolat, you’ll also find a variety of daily-changing goods on offer: Swedish cinnamon buns, pasteis de nata, and chocolate chip cookies are just a few things on the menu here.
We didn’t manage to sneak in a visit to Roots on this trip - but based on the number of locals who raved about this Michelin-starred restaurant, I am certainly adding it to my list for next time.
To visit:
The Shambles
It’s not a visit to York without a ramble through The Shambles (and the surrounding streets) in the centre of the city’s walled old town. You’ll find all manner of boutique shops, cafes, and restaurants to stumble across here - make sure to have a wander along nearby Fossgate as well. If you’re visiting throughout the festive season (as we were), this is also where York’s famous Christmas market is located.
York Minster
One of the UK’s most impressive cathedrals, York Minster is an architectural masterpiece, both inside and out. Book your tickets in advance for a visit inside the church - alternatively, sneak inside in the early evening for evensong almost every day of the week.
Have you ever been to York? I’d love to know what your favourite places are in the city!
