Lisbon: a city guide
I recently got back from a long weekend in Lisbon, a city that I hadn’t visited in years. In the time since my last visit, the city has undergone a culinary renaissance of sorts, and is now home to a thriving restaurant and cafe scene, making it the perfect destination for a weekend city break. Throw into the mix sunny weather almost all year round, beautiful streets to explore, and welcoming locals, and what’s not to love? Read on for my recommendations on where to eat and sleep in the Portuguese capital…
To stay:
A chic design hotel part of the Small Luxury Hotels collection, The Vintage is an elegantly renovated townhouse championing mid-century interiors. Its 56 spacious rooms feature bold colour palettes alongside high ceilings, and even make-your-own gin and tonic bars. Boasting a rooftop bar with far-reaching views of the city, along with a subterranean spa to relax in, this is the perfect spot to make your base in the city.
An industrial-style art gallery come hotel, Raw Culture features 13 generous ‘lofts’ that are kitted out with their own kitchens, generous bedroom spaces, and contemporary furnishings. Expect bold artwork, polished concrete floors, and squishy leather sofas to sprawl out on - the hotel’s central location in buzzy Biarro Alto makes walking to (almost) any destination in the city incredibly easy, but do bring earplugs with you if you’re a light sleeper.
To eat:
Although A Cevicheria might be best known for its colourful and inventive ceviche dishes (along its life-size octopus sculpture suspended from the ceiling above the bar), it’s the other dishes on the seafood-based menu here that really surprised us. Make sure to order the crispy tuna belly and wasabi tostadas - and save room for the heavenly desserts. Get here early on weekends, as the restaurant doesn’t take reservations.
A farm-to-table restaurant priding itself on its use of seasonal and local produce, PRADO serves up a delicious menu of modern Portuguese sharing dishes for lunch and dinner in a stylish, airy space. Make sure to order the crusty homebaked sourdough (served with lardo and paprika butter), and the celeriac with mushroom cream and hazelnuts - every dish here is truly sensational, and the service is slick and attentive too.
PRADO’S laidback sister restaurant is a cosy all-day deli come wine bar located just next door. Serving up tasty small plates to share (such as fresh asparagus with soft boiled egg and pesto) and heavenly cheese and charcuterie boards, this is the perfect spot for a light lunch or pre-dinner drinks after an afternoon exploring nearby Alfama.
A cool all-day brunch cafe with whitewashed walls and vaulted ceilings, Comoba serves up specialty coffee, matcha, and vegan-friendly dishes, including their famous chai or matcha pancakes. Order a thick stack of these and settle in with a book - you’ll find lots of freelancers tapping away on laptops during the day.
There’s a queue around the block here on most weekends - and for good reason too. Nannarella serves up the most flavourful and authentic Italian gelato in the city: expect interesting flavours, and cones piled high with generous scoops.
Part cafe, part bakery and concept store, Marquise de Mobler serves up brunch dishes in a chic space filled with elegant pottery pieces that you can purchase - while their store next door sells expertly sourced pieces of mid-century furniture. If you can’t get a seat at the cafe, pop to their bakery next door, where you can sample some of the softest, stickiest cinnamon buns in the city.
A chic seafood restaurant in Biarro Alto, Rosamar is a sleek space with its own oyster bar and outdoor terrace. Inspired by the sea, expect nautically striped banquettes, and a menu that champions seafood: octopus tostadas, ceviche, and whole seabass to share are all favourites on the menu. Dishes are tasty and fresh, and the atmosphere is sophisticated.
A laidback all day brunch cafe that turns into a cool wine bar serving small plates in the evening, Magnolia attracts a crowd of trendy locals. Ogle at the frescoed ceiling while nibbling on freshly prepared Turkish eggs and croque monsieur.
Also: Fabrica Coffee Roasters for good coffee, The Folks for an Australian-style brunch, and Copenhagen Coffee Lab (a Danish chain that can be found in multiple spots across the city) for decent coffee and cardamom buns.
Have you ever been to Lisbon, or to any of these recommendations? I’d love to know your thoughts in the comments below!
