Hotel Review: Sao Lourenco do Barrocal
It’s been a while since my last post on here, and if you follow me on Instagram, you’ll know that I recently started a new job, which has been keeping me busy for the past couple of weeks. In the days before starting my new role, I managed to join a press trip to Sao Lourenco do Barrocal, a 200 year old, family-run estate in Portugal’s Alentejo, that has been restored into an ultra-chic, luxurious boutique hotel. A number of friends have visited the property before and returned with rave reviews, so I was interested to see if it lived up to expectations. Read on for my full review.
First impressions: 5/5
Located in Alentejo, historically known as one of Portugal’s poorest regions and an area that is often overlooked by tourists in favour of Comporta and the Algarve, Sao Lourenco sits almost adjacent to the Spanish border, in a part of Alentejo that is almost entirely landlocked. Separated from the rest of the world and nestled within 780 hectares of wilderness, the estate provides a haven of calm and tranquility, and has bounced back from the region’s somewhat damning history, now catering to the most luxurious of tastes. Encompassing a 200 year old farmhouse, working farm, and vineyard, the property has been in the hands of the same local family since its construction (other than the years that it was seized by the Portugese government). Although the hotel has been carefully restored to serve twenty-first century tastes, the original structure of the farmhouse buildings has been preserved, and impressively remains unchanged despite renovations: expect arched ceilings, gentle curves, and whitewashed walls throughout, with every room featuring pared back interiors, and subtly decorated with artisan wall hangings and rugs, which add a sliver of colour to otherwise neutral colour palettes. From the exterior, a endless row of whitewashed cottages are covered in a thick blanket of ivy, and terracotta roofs glint in the sunshine.
Many of the bedrooms straddle the hotel’s central cobbled colonnade, with rustic blue doors opening directly onto the courtyards or gardens: some rooms boast verandas shaded with bougainvillea or benches to sit outside and admire the sunset. Larger two and three bedroom cottages also have their own sitting areas and kitchens, and are the perfect accommodation for families or groups of friends: one of the larger cottages housed in the estate’s original cowshed features soaring ceilings, panelled walls, and a large open-plan kitchen and living room area with squishy sofas in deep tones of red and blue. Every room offers a different viewpoint of the estate, whether that’s the back of the winery, the leafy courtyards, or the grassy meadow that leads down to the hotel pool.
To do: 5/5
In the height of summer, the pool beckons guests from afar, offering respite from the sweltering heat. Wandering past the hotel’s restaurant and traipsing through greenery, you’ll find it located next to the kitchen gardens: much like the rest of Sao Lourenco, the pool is ultra-chic, shaded by dark blue umbrellas and encircled by pillowy sun loungers; thankfully there’s more than enough space for guests to sprawl out, and all of the loungers benefit from being in the sunshine (it’s hard not to get a tan here!). A separate children’s pool is far enough from the main pool so as not be a distraction, but also close enough for parents to keep a watchful eye. Mornings and afternoons can easily be spent languishing here, with the nearby pool bar offering al fresco lunch options and nibbles. If you want to follow this with a spot of pampering, there is of course the hotel’s Susanne Kaufmann spa, which is as beautiful and calming a space as the rest of the hotel: expect soothing treatment rooms and relaxation pods to kick back in.
Exploring the estate’s extensive grounds should definitely be on the agenda when staying here: e-bikes (and regular bikes, if you’re feeling fit!) are available to explore the mostly untamed surroundings. You can follow the roads, winding through an undulating carpet of colourful wildflowers, or simply go off-road and find yourself whizzing through fields of wild horses, and passing by thousand-year-old olive trees. End up at the hotel’s impressive and extensive vineyard (beautiful for a sunset stroll) before visiting the winery, where award-winning wines are all produced organically. Private wine tastings can be arranged here, and accompanied by meat and cheese pairings, while delicious picnics can also be prepared to take out on your wanderings.
During our stay, we also enjoyed a foraging tour with the hotel’s head gardener, and even a stargazing session after dinner, where an astronomer from the local university came armed with a colossal telescope to show us nearby galaxies while we sipped on hot chocolate. Mountain biking, pottery workshops, horse riding, and birding are just a few of the activities offered to guests, allowing you to be fully immersed in Alentejo’s local traditions and wildly beautiful surroundings. For those wanting to venture past the estate, the nearby medieval village of Monsaraz is well worth a visit: located on a hilltop and somewhat frozen in time, you can wander the cobbled streets of whitewashed houses to discover artisan shops and pick up pieces of local pottery.
Food and drink: 4.5/5
The food at Sao Lourenco do Barrocal is rather excellent, combining local flavours with homegrown produce from the farm and kitchen gardens. In the summer months, guests dine al fresco around sharing tables under ivy-covered shades, feasting on fresh fish, octopus, and meats. Local dishes such as cod fritters, veal croquettes and traditional Portugese scrambled eggs are highlights on the menu, and are washed down with wine from the estate’s vineyards. Save room for the desserts too: my favourite on the menu was the delicious Bolo Duque, a traditional apple and vanilla Portugese dessert that has been reimagined into a contemporary work of art by Sao Lourenco’s chefs.
A casual bar and restaurant by the pool also opens in the summer months, offering light sandwiches and salads at lunchtime: enjoy a refreshing tomato salad (using tomatoes quite literally growing in the kitchen gardens next to the pool) with local cheese, or tuna steak sandwiches served in pillowy Bolo do Caco bread. In the evenings, the hotel bar is where guests gather for cocktails and light bites - chic camper chairs are positioned around outdoor fire pits to provide the perfect atmosphere for a sundowner.
Meanwhile, breakfasts are a generous affair to keep you well fed throughout the day: every morning, you’ll find a table groaning with all kinds of cheeses, meats, fruits, and homemade pastries to graze from. A simple cooked menu is also available for guests to order eggs and pancakes.
Comfort and service: 5/5
I’m already plotting when I can race back to Sao Lourenco and bring Oliver along with me. It’s the little things about this hotel that stay with you long after you’ve departed: the beautiful table settings you’ll find at dinner time, the addictively tasty cookies left in your bedroom at turndown service, the ‘cabinet of curiosities’ in the hotel restaurant that displays artefacts gathered over the years from across the estate…I could go on. The care and attention given to preserving local traditions and honouring the surrounding nature is unparalleled, and the sense of calm that pervades throughout the estate is difficult to shake off long after leaving.
Across the hotel, staff are welcoming and laid back, happy to accommodate guests’ every whim and fancy. It’s easy to see why families and honeymooners alike choose to return here year after year: from the beautiful surroundings to the quietly elegant interiors and breadth of things to do, staying here provides visitors with a restorative experience that’s luxurious yet unpretentious. Sao Lourenco do Barrocal might just be Portugal’s hidden gem, but I doubt it will stay that way for very much longer.
